Tuesday, April 30, 2013

The Chinese Elm for bonsai
Ulmus Parvifolia

 The Chinese elm is more than likely a very good choice for the beginning bonsai artist as it is very forgiving to a point and pretty easy to train. It can be trained in almost all of the bonsai styles other than up right as the plant is very twisty so to speak and does not lend its self to that style very well.

 I personally would choose and informal style or one of  the cascading styles for this plant. The bonsai you see here is one from my own collection and has been in training for about fifteen years now and is coming alone nicely..

 The Chinese elm is a deciduous plant and can be grown either indoors or out, however it will tend to do much better as do most bonsai left out doors. But pay particular attention to the plant in the winter months and protect it from harsh blasts of wind and or frost or any freezing weather as this would truly kill the plant and it would not take long at all over night in fact. So when old man winter gears up more than the usual then take the plant into a safer location indoors but still store it in a some what cooler place.

 I live in the Great Northwest in the state of Oregon and that would be considered zone 8 on the plant scale map and just for all of you that do not know what that is well here is a link below to the best one around that will help you to understand state by state the growing zone for that area.

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/#

 As with any bonsai watering is a very important factor and no one plant is the same they all have different watering habits and you will only learn by study and reading and practise. But the general rule with nearly all bonsai is to water every day in the growing season especially in summer when it begins to heat up as the plants are planted in very little soil and have a very compact root system thus eliminating any water fairly fast.

 Over all I use my fingers to tell me and if I push my finger down firmly into the soil at least half an inch or more and it feels dry then its time to water.. The Chinese and Japanese actually use chop sticks made from the softer wood and they will break one in half and use one of the broke half's to test for watering as the sick will absorb the water and leave a moist spot on the sick at the level where water would have been last and if you pull the stick up and check and it seems dried out then its time to water... I just prefer the finger method my self.

 There are also plant meters that you can purchase from local nursery's that will tell you soil reading and dampness levels.... from around $12.00 dollars and up so look for one if you like....But the best practise is to learn your individual plants by heart and there specific watering needs by species and then you will not have any guess work involved.

 The Chinese elm can take the sun as long as you move it out into the sun gradual and not all at once in other words give it a chance to acclimate and then move it on out.. Air flow should be good too and not real windy but normal.

 These plants will need a lot of trimming as they tend to produce a lot of new growth and fairly fast in early spring right on into the summer months... So do not be afraid to give them a hair cut as with any bonsai and the rule here is leave two leaves and trim the third away.. Chinese elm is very twiggy and will produces tons of little twiggy growth all over the plant so once you have began to develop a some what acceptable limb structure on your plant then you will want to strive for branches where the leaves look and grow into a rounded pad if you will outstretched away from the trunk.

 I managed to take many cuttings from this mother plant about 7 years ago and so now have many in my collection that are in starter pots and have been in training for about five of the 7 years and they are also coming alone nicely and will make wonderful bonsai in the future for me to add to the garden or too sell you can see a picture of Chinese elm at the top of the article.

Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: 













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