Turkey day tomorrow..

So here we are at another thanksgiving and I will be alone as my family is all gone and passed away over the last few years.. But I will most defiantly have my little Cornish hen and some dressing and mashed potatoes and gravy and perhaps some traditional cranberry sauce. Then I will just kick back and try too enjoy the remainder of the day lamenting over some of this past years blessings and good fortune.

I wish to tell all my readers and bonsai lovers alike here is wishing you all a very happy thanksgiving and I hope your able to enjoy and have a nice relaxing day..

Thanks from me to all of you, Harold Yearout

Juniperus rigida bonsai

The genus Juniperus rigdia like all other junipers is in the family of Cypress this particular species is native too northern China, Korea, Japan and the very far southeast part of Russia. It can be used as a shrub or a tree and lives in its native areas in fairly high altitudes it is an evergreen.

This tree or shrub has a very shredded like bark and this can look very nice if used in bonsai and it adds a lot of interest to the trunk of the tree but can in the case of bonsai harbor and hide little pests like bugs and ants and other insects so most often when working one of theses plants into a bonsai most people will peal and work that bark away down too the trunk where you will begin to see the reddish colored trunk appear..

You will of course loose some of the trunks interest but your tree will be much safer from insects and not be as apt to get any fungi and or other pests under the shaggy bark.. I acquired this plant from a fellow bonsai enthusiast and it was a very good price and deal for me as I love junipers anyway and thought it would make a nice little addition to my collection..

The tree is too small in trunk girth to have much of a nebari and is lacking there of and might have been the reason the other fellow did not want to keep it or work it any more.. I will always be the first to agree that a strong and well placed nebari on a tree trunk truly will make the tree shine and look fantastic but some times mother nature just does not give it too us in our life time and so we must settle for less than the best effort and take what is handed to us and try our best to still create something nice to view anyway. Or at least I do. I have often times been accused of not even letting a dandelion die even though it is a weed.

I bought it from him anyway and brought it home and re applied some Lime sulpher to re brighten up the Shari on the trunk and then later that day decided too also give it a nice looking pot. Now I know any master would think that I'm totally crazy and wasting my time by not only working this plant and would truly balk at me for giving it a nice pot but oh well rules are meant to be broken at times and I can not stand any plant in my collection not having a decent pot... Plastic and or wood crates and the like just do not cut it for me...

I have no idea how old this little guy is but not too old I suspect as its trunk size is way too small to have been around for too long.

This juniper like most any other conifer likes well drained soil and lots of full sun if you can provide it and although it will tolerate wet feet too some extent I do not leave it or any of my other plants stay that wet and of course since I do live in the Great Northwest I need not water as much like most others will in there areas as here mother nature provides much rain and remains my constant garden hose most all the time.

Some junipers produce berries and believe it or not the berries are used for spice in a fairly wide variety of food dishes and also the berries are used in some kinds of gin, mostly for a special flavor and it has also been used in certain beers.

Pruning should be carried out in early spring and you can trim or pinch some growth most any time of year but always try to pinch off new growth and stay out of the way of your older wood as it will not grow back to readily in the older areas of the tree or shrub. Re potting of this like most all conifers should be done in early spring before the tree begins too bud up and start any new growth.

Junipers are pretty hardy and strong so you do not have too much to worry about with growing this tree or shrub in your garden or as a bonsai.. Nursery's most often have a wide variety of juniper plants on hand so you should not have any problem at all finding a nice plant to work with and create into a nice bonsai in a lot of different styles.

You could even plant one in the ground for several years taking care to dig it up ever other year or so and cutting back some of the root and also to prevent it from getting too deeply rooted this will of course get you some nice trunk caliper and hopefully a nice nebari to start off with and then when your ready dig it up and benign work on it as a bonsai.

 Jin and or Shari of course is not recommended for the absolute beginner you should wait for this until you have a good total understanding of creating bonsai and then you could play with the idea and use it for its intended purpose and that is hide and or cover up a particular messy part of the tree, or old and or or dead wood, a possible branch that is interesting and has died and most often will just be cut away could instead be made into Jin and add the perception of age to the tree and or add other wise too its over all appearance.

In the case of jin on a bonsai it is a matter of scrapping or pealing all of the bark off in a particular area of the tree and making sure that you have it fairly clean and as smooth as possible and wet too some degree and then you paint on a coat of Lime Sulpher over the area that you wish too have as Jin and it will turn a grayish white giving off the appearance of drift wood or weathered wood too the tree. Be careful and wear goggles and use rubber gloves and also be careful and mindful as to not get any of the sulpher mixture down into your soil as it could or may cause the death of the tree. I usually cover the soil in the pot with some sandwich wrap and or an old towel then begin my work.

The Lime sulpher should be applied once in the spring and then again at or just before fall and then again in the next spring and as needed to keep the gray white weathered appearance after that. A lot of the finer master pieces in bonsai have some areas of the tree or shrub that have been made into Jin.

 It certainly does not need to be done but is a matter of personal preference and or the choice of the creator of the bonsai if he or she wishes to Jin or create Shari on any given tree or not.

Lime sulpher is not expensive and if you grow roses and or any fruit trees it can also be used to control fungi and pests so you can also get the other benefits of this product other than just for bonsai use. And as with any and all chemicals first read and understand the label before using for any application.

Well I'm going to end this article here and hope that you find it helpful even if in the slightest way and please by all means try your hand at creating your own juniper bonsai and who knows it may very well turn out being one of the worlds finer masterpieces..

Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: h.yearout@gmail.com

Lions Main Shishi

 Once again as promised here is a picture of my multiple planting of the Lions main or rather the Shishigashira maple.

 There are four Shishi in this planting and more could be added however most likely not...The pot for this planting is 39" inches long by 30" inches wide and 4" inches deep and the largest Shishi is 51" inches in height and with a trunk caliper of 2-1/2 inches at the base This tree was field grown for many years to obtain height and trunk caliper and then planted in this group planting early this spring... Eventually the planting will be refined and some nice moss added to help hold moisture and possibly some other small ground cover plants will be added as I have time.


Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: h.yearout@gmail.com

The Chinese Elm for bonsai
Ulmus Parvifolia

 The Chinese elm is more than likely a very good choice for the beginning bonsai artist as it is very forgiving to a point and pretty easy to train. It can be trained in almost all of the bonsai styles other than up right as the plant is very twisty so to speak and does not lend its self to that style very well.

 I personally would choose and informal style or one of  the cascading styles for this plant. The bonsai you see here is one from my own collection and has been in training for about fifteen years now and is coming alone nicely..

 The Chinese elm is a deciduous plant and can be grown either indoors or out, however it will tend to do much better as do most bonsai left out doors. But pay particular attention to the plant in the winter months and protect it from harsh blasts of wind and or frost or any freezing weather as this would truly kill the plant and it would not take long at all over night in fact. So when old man winter gears up more than the usual then take the plant into a safer location indoors but still store it in a some what cooler place.

 I live in the Great Northwest in the state of Oregon and that would be considered zone 8 on the plant scale map and just for all of you that do not know what that is well here is a link below to the best one around that will help you to understand state by state the growing zone for that area.

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/#

 As with any bonsai watering is a very important factor and no one plant is the same they all have different watering habits and you will only learn by study and reading and practise. But the general rule with nearly all bonsai is to water every day in the growing season especially in summer when it begins to heat up as the plants are planted in very little soil and have a very compact root system thus eliminating any water fairly fast.

 Over all I use my fingers to tell me and if I push my finger down firmly into the soil at least half an inch or more and it feels dry then its time to water.. The Chinese and Japanese actually use chop sticks made from the softer wood and they will break one in half and use one of the broke half's to test for watering as the sick will absorb the water and leave a moist spot on the sick at the level where water would have been last and if you pull the stick up and check and it seems dried out then its time to water... I just prefer the finger method my self.

 There are also plant meters that you can purchase from local nursery's that will tell you soil reading and dampness levels.... from around $12.00 dollars and up so look for one if you like....But the best practise is to learn your individual plants by heart and there specific watering needs by species and then you will not have any guess work involved.

 The Chinese elm can take the sun as long as you move it out into the sun gradual and not all at once in other words give it a chance to acclimate and then move it on out.. Air flow should be good too and not real windy but normal.

 These plants will need a lot of trimming as they tend to produce a lot of new growth and fairly fast in early spring right on into the summer months... So do not be afraid to give them a hair cut as with any bonsai and the rule here is leave two leaves and trim the third away.. Chinese elm is very twiggy and will produces tons of little twiggy growth all over the plant so once you have began to develop a some what acceptable limb structure on your plant then you will want to strive for branches where the leaves look and grow into a rounded pad if you will outstretched away from the trunk.

 I managed to take many cuttings from this mother plant about 7 years ago and so now have many in my collection that are in starter pots and have been in training for about five of the 7 years and they are also coming alone nicely and will make wonderful bonsai in the future for me to add to the garden or too sell you can see a picture of Chinese elm at the top of the article.

Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: 

Hedge Maple As Bonsai

ACER CAMPESTRE OR HEDGE MAPLE

Hi there all,

 In this article I will try to give you information on what is called the Hedge Maple Or Field Maple.

 This variety of maple is used in many landscape designs and works well in most all public areas like around malls parks center dividers on public streets and the like it is more native to Europe and Asia and many other areas around the globe. In North America thou this maple is known as or called by a more common name Hedge Maple or even Field Maple. Although it is used more commonly in Europe it can still be found here however in nursery's and as I said they are more commonly used in landscape design than for bonsai.

 But as usual I personally will try most any kind of tree or shrub for bonsai simply for not only a learning curve but also to increase my own personal collection. So I was lucky to have picked up some of these little guys at a local nursery and created a grove of them in a bonsai style forest planting or Penjing style if you will.

 Now for all of you that do not know what Penjing is well that is another day or another article but in the mean time if you wish to really know what Penjing is  then Google it...But to make it quick and simple its what is considered multiple plantings or in this case a planting that is more than one tree in the same pot and is often a style of bonsai used more by the Chinese than any other.

 The Hedge Maple has a nice small leaf structure making it a very good choice for a group planting as there always tend to be several trees in any group planting and thus being planted very close together and all growing in the same pot which of course means that we will need room for the top growth and yet do not want it to look overly crowded. So more often than not I personally will choose a shrub or tree that has smaller leaves and a bit of a slower growth habit if used for a forest panting.

 For this planting I choose an oval non glazed pot 12" inches long by 6" inches wide and 2" inches total depth and there are a total of 14 trees in this planting and so far this season all are doing fine.The bark on hedge maple tends to lean towards a gray almost cork fissured look with age and like I said although grown more for an ornamental look it can also of course be bonsai-ed as I have shown here.

 The Hedge Maple is also a hard wood used a lot in the making of furniture and musical instruments.It is very shade tolerant in its early infancy but will tend to need and want more direct light and sun as it grows larger and it does tend to like full sun but be careful and watch what is happening very closely if you keep it in full sun.Full sun is more for a tree in the ground than in a small bonsai pot that will tend to dry out quickly.

 The Hedge Maple if left in the ground and not in a pot can grow to heights of over 25 feet and will make a lovely shade tree and can also be used in nearly any landscape as a hedge if planted close together in rows along fences or driveways or as dividers on property lines, simply use your own imagination if using the trees this way... But they will cluster together nicely making eventually a very nice tight hedge thus of course where the name was derived Hedge Maple.

 But for this article I chose to make a group planting and add several of these small trees to one small pot and then grow them on as a forest planting... The Chinese create most of there bonsai in this style called Penjing. They also of course go a little further than I tend too and add other items to there planting so as to make a scene and this is also nice and makes a very nice looking planting if you have the time and patients to do so..

 Watering for this plant is normal pretty much every day as in this pactiular instance being planted in a very shallow pot it will tend to dry out much faster necessitating a more rigid watering regime. In the hotter weather as spring evolves into summer and things warm up then you will want to be more vigilante and keep your plant well watered and some what shaded from the direct sun as maple tends to burn rather easy and it would not take more than one good hot afternoon to cook your plant and ruin it for sure.

 For soil I use a nice medium mix I personally use for most all of my bonsai three parts plain regular garden soil simply gathered from my own property and one part sand and one part perlite you could of course purchase all of these products from any garden center. Mix all three parts well and then add to your pot as needed during your planting. If  your pot provides extra holes in the bottom of it for wiring then you should of course take advantage of this and wire the trees or tree into the pot so as to prevent it from toppling in the winter and spring wind storms.

 Living in the Northwest we of course tend to get a lot of rain and a lot of these small storms in early spring and of course all winter long and since I do not remove my plants from their garden locations unless the temperatures get into the teens they winter out doors all season and come wind rain or snow they still manage to survive. But some plants can and will be just by the way you plant them rather top heavy so you should alwasys take this into consideration when planting and wire them into the pot if possible.

 But then again as an avid grower of bonsai I tend to be right on top of things during all seasons watching my plants and tending them nearly every day.

 Pests to maple are few so not to much worry there but never the less keep a sharp eye as always its better safe than sorry.  Maple happens to be one of my favorites in the garden and happens to be one of the easier plants to grow and to manage. I grow all of my maples from seed unless I'm picking up a really very good bargain from the local nursery which I might add is not often. Most maples I have or have had around for any time seem to start producing there own seed after they are about eight to ten years old and I gather the seeds in the fall and stratify them and then sow the seeds in the early spring of course to indeed have more maples either for my self or for resale..

 Well not much more I can tell you at this time about Hedge Maple but as always if I pick up on any other good hints or tips about this little plant then I will add them to this post. So have fun with this one and look for some in your local nursery and make your very own Penjing or forest planting.


Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: 

Hi too everyone,

I'm back

All of you that have been on this site or may see this site in the future may or may have not noticed by looking at the dates of my blog posts I have been away for a very long time... Due to some major health issues and family deaths I have not had the time nor the inclination to keep up with the blog...

But a new spring is upon us and I have many new plants and a lot of new additions too my garden and a lot of information to give my readers and perhaps new followers and so I will attempt once again too keep everyone who comes here or reads my posts supplied with new information and hopefully one and all will gain something from it and learn and maybe even have some fun along the way as you follow what will hopefully this time be a long and fruitful blog and I truly hope that the articles and posts that I add here for you will not only inspire you but help you to understand this as possibly one of the most rewarding hobbies in the plant kingdom.

http://thelivingbonsai.blogspot.com

Harold Yearout.

A Red Pine Bonsai

The Red Pine as bonsai.


The Red Pine is of course not the best choice for a beginner to this most rewarding hobby but none the less makes a lovely and wonderful addition to any collection if you have the time and patients to create it..

First of all the Red pine like most all pines is very slow growing so do not expect results fast and if your an elder person too the hobby well then you may want to find a specimen plant to deal with if you do wish results right away, otherwise plan on waiting for many years to get a Red Pine to any size that would be acceptable as bonsai and a tree nice enough too have and too view in your collection.

The Red Pine is of course a native tree to North America and can be found in the forests of many states and could be dug from the wild if you are lucky enough to find a nice one that could be suitable for use in bonsai. Or you could grow one from seed but it would take many years. So if you truly wish to start one to add too your collection then I highly recommend that you find one already growing as nursery stock and work from there.

Red pine is a conifer and has a rather tall growth habit it can grow to a height of any where between roughly 65 feet to over 115 feet if left to grow naturally in the ground but is not a large tree around in diameter only usually reaching around three feet at maximum growth. But however for this article were talking about keeping and growing one as a bonsai so were not worried about the tree ever reaching any height like it would in the wild..

The bark of the red pine has a crackled look in most cases and is fissured and if you look down through it at varying heights on the tree you will see some red appearance thus the derived name Red Pine. Branches on Red Pine are very brittle so must be handled with care if wiring in traditional bonsai forms. The Red Pine will produce cones with age and the cones will have a slight purple look too them when first coming out and of course turn brown with age.

Here is a close up of the trunk of my tree and so as you can see as I described the crackled bark and the red look of the bark, in this case near the base of my tree however this red fissured look will occur all up and down the trunk of the entire tree with age and time...


Like most all trees in the pinus family they are very drought tolerant in the wild and can survive for long periods of time with out water. But they will not of course last at all for any duration as bonsai without you as the care giver being very vigilante and observant with its over all care and especially its watering.

It loves full sun so you should then of course try to find a spot in your garden to provide full sun or at least if not full sun then you should give it at least four to five hours a day of natural sun light. The tree will produce new growth early every spring and this growth is traditionally called candles and in some cases others call them by other names. These candles must be pinched out in late June if you wish not to have them grow on to make more heads on your tree with new needles.

In other words if you wish your trees heads or pom poms as I call them to remain the same size and not get lager or more dense then pinch out the new candles and growth every year as it becomes evident on your tree.

The needles of the red Pine like a whole lot of pinus will be rather long, some where between two and three inches in normal growth but as with all bonsai if you continue too grow and nurture your tree over many years the needles will eventually be shorter in length witch of course is the desired effect we all are wanting and looking for in most any pine that we create as a bonsai.

 I have seen as an example a Red Pine that was created and grown by a Japanese family for over ten generations making the tree close to 900 years in age when I viewed it in 2006 in Japan and its needles were less than an eight of an inch long. This tree was absolutely one of the most awesome bonsai I personally have ever had the chance to view. This was of course by private invite only and not in some standard nursery..

This Red Pine has been in my own personal collection now for over 14 years and was originally purchased as nursery stock and then field grown for ten years so I could get trunk caliper and then dug back up and re-potted and then worked as bonsai to get what you now see in the present picture above.  Of course as with any bonsai it will always be evolving and changing in size structure and appearance as with any bonsai they are truly never finished.

You could grow any bonsai your entire life time and it would still never be finished and of course this my own  personal opinion

I truly hope that the small amount of information I have given you here is enough to possibly inspire you to perhaps try your hand at creating and growing your very own Red Pine as a bonsai.

Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2013 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me: 

Hi to everyone,

Well not to much going on here in the way of bonsai as the Portland area is in a nice winter grip and for the first time in years I moved nearly almost all of my bonsai into an indoors protected area.

For years I have left all of my bonsai out doors and set up in my garden in there various locations and never worried to much about the colder weather and it has been down real low many times past 19 degrees with snow and even ice.

But this year it got even lower than in the past with some nite time temps in the real low teens so I got a little worried and moved them indoors.

We had snow again today and it makes the garden look so pretty and really pristine when that happens. Hope you all enjoy your holidays. So have a wonderful Merry Christmas and and a very happy New Year.

Here is a picture of part of the garden today in lite snow...


Thanks, Harold

Apoligize to all my readers

I wish to apologize to now to anyone that had been reading and or looking at my blog as I have not updated it in over three years. I had some very serious health problems and also some deaths in my family that were very devastating to me and I was simply way to involved in keeping just up with the daily tasks of living and really had no time for any thing else.

But now I seem to have most of it fixed and I'm going to be back up and running as fast as I can and in as full of force as I can. I also wanted you all to know that the space here on Google is pretty limited and so I wont be building a very large site as of yet but it is coming and also I need to wait for some time yet until I can afford all the legal jargon for a full blown web site as I intend to eventually make it into a membership site and sell products there as well as teach and train and have available for download video audio and digital products.

So please bear with me through this time and it will be a very nice site I promise. In the mean time please enjoy the limited site here and my blog on Google.

Thanks, Harold Yearout

THE FORMAL UPRIGHT BONSAI

Possibly one of the most majestic bonsai is the formal upright bonsai. This style is very bold looking with a trunk that is straight up vertical and has a very well pronounced apex.

Nearly all other styles can be somewhat derived form the formal upright bonsai. Some of the best materials for this style are Pine, Spruce, Needle Juniper, Redwood, and False Cypress.

This style of bonsai is the real classic of bonsai and if you’re planting one then you would want it to represent as close as possible the conditions that it would grow under normally in the forest.

Let’s take a look at what makes this tree so special. Out in the forest this tree’s ideal conditions would be a very good amount of rain fall for its water needs and the soil around this tree would be very level. It would also require a good amount of air flow and a good deal of sunlight to induce it to grow well and strong.

This tree would not like a lot of other trees close competing for the same space either so it needs its space. It likes plenty of room for the roots to spread and it doesn’t like rocky conditions around its base.

Ok now that I given you somewhat of an idea of the ideal conditions for this type of tree in the wild forest then let’s take a look at what we will want to do in order to create one as a bonsai for our collection.

First of all I would go out to my local nursery and take a look at what is available to me in the group of trees that I mentioned above here in the article. You should be looking for a tree that has good strong bold roots and you’ll want a tree that has very well pronounced good strong branches.

Your first branch on the tree should always be the strongest and it should begin at about one third the ways up the trunk of your tree from ground level. We want our tree to look like a triangle if we were looking straight on into the tree from the front view.

We want our root display to be very strong and rugged looking for this tree as it will certainly depict a very strong and firmly rooted tree and that’s what we want to convey to the onlooker.

We want our tree to have branches that work there way up the tree so that we could climb the tree as if it had steps on each side of the tree in other words I want my branches from left to right on my tree to be nearly at the same height and be directly across from each other moving up my tree towards the top of the apex.

You will want to be selective of the type of pot that you use for the final home for this type of tree. You want a pot that of course has plenty of room for the roots to spread and you want a pot that usually has straight sides and you do not want a pot that is to ornate or distracting with a lot of design.

You want a pot that if at all possible will be rectangular in shape and you want a pot that has nice looking but still fairly simple feet. You want pots that have subdueed colors and not ever fired to a glaze.

I may decide at some point later on after my tree is well established that I want to Jin part of the uper trunk to inhance age in my tree and if you so desire you can preform this work on your tree. I will write an article on this procedure at a later time as it is rather involved.

But if in the mean time you simply can’t wait to find out what is involved then there are books and articles on the net about this subject. Pretty much in a nut shell the art of Jin is to make your tree look much more aged by methods of carving or otherwise preparing some part of the trees trunk or a branch or branches by a method of bleeching out the wood to give it an appreance somewhat like driftwood.

Thanks, for readingBy: Harold Yearout©Copyright 2006 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved For more information feel free to Contact Me:

The joys of a table top fountain

The Joy of a table top fountain

One of my favorite things everyday as I work in my office is the fact that I can listen to the soothing sounds of water trickling out of the dragon's mouth and then dropping down onto some pebbles continuing on into the main pool of water. This is just one of my favorite table top fountains

I have always enjoyed fountains in my main garden at home but just recently I decided that I would add a table type fountain to my office at work and enjoy the sounds of the water all day as I work.

My job requires that I process and do a lot of paper work every day and most of the work is done on the computer. However this work at times can be very boring and take up a great deal of my time.

To help relax me and to help break up the silence of the day I keep my fountain running and it really has made a difference.

I'm lucky in a way I guess because I do not share my office with anyone and I have it all to myself. I do not work in an environment of the cubicle office like so many office workers do. My office is rather large and I have it filled to nearly capacity with indoor bonsai plants and other items that I enjoy.

Many have remarked about my office looking like a small nursery and I just laugh because to me they are just my plants and I enjoy having them around me all the time to see and tend to when I'm not working.

But I guess to my coworkers and others that have visited my office it probably does look very over crowded with bonsai plants as there are nearly forty of them in my area at work in various places.

I guess the point of all this is to tell you that if you can at all get your boss to let you add one of these small table top fountains to your work area then by all means do so as they are very relaxing and help the day go by. Not to mention they add a little beauty and also help to personalize your work area.

Most of the table type fountains usually have a little room left over where you can add some plant life to it and that will also begin to create a better effect for you and your passers by to enjoy.

There are many to choose from in the market place and styles and designs are most often of a personal preference. You could spend hours looking for the right one and in doing so pass many different ones by. But when you do see the one you fall in love with you will most likely just have to have it as these little fountains are almost always an impulse buy.

Since I'm into bonsai and frogs are part of the culture with the Chinese and Japanese so I most recently choose a fountain that displayed frogs and I love it. Of course dragons are also a part of the culture in some ways so I also enjoy my main fountain that has two bowls and a dragon in the center that dispenses the water.

I just yesterday added my new frog fountain as it is a little smaller than my dragon fountain and fits wonderfully on my desk right where I hear it well and also so that I can view it.

These fountains need not be expensive you can pick up a nice one in many shopping areas for under fifty bucks and get a life time of enjoyment out of your investment.

If you would like to see the frog table top fountain then I have added a picture to this post for you to view. If you like this fountain and would like to have one then contact me I can get one to your door in most parts of the country for $46.95 like I said under fifty bucks and that includes shipping and handling.

This style frog and lily pad designed fountain comes with pump and UL approved cord the decorative stones are not included. The size is 11 1/2" x 10 1/2" x 7" high. Four froggy friends grab a cool drink of water from the cup of a lilypad leaf. A treat to behold indoors or out! Pump included. The material is Alabastrite. Ul recognized. 11 1/2" x 10 1/2" x 7" high.

If frogs are not your cup of tea then by all means keep looking till you find your favorite table top fountain and then grab it up and enjoy it because there really is something about hearing the sounds or water moving that will do wonders for your day trust me about this one.

Just to let you all know this will be my last post for the year 2005. My first article for the year of 2006 will be the creation of an upright bonsai one of the main styles of bonsai.

I look forward to writing many new articles for you in the coming year and I hope you enjoy the Living Bonsai and More and will return often to read my ramblings and posts.

Here is wishing each and every one a very happy NewYear and a very fantastic 2006.


Thanks for reading and viewing.
By Harold Yearout

Abundance of Golden gate Ficus

Hi to all of my readers I have put together a very special offer for all of you that might be interested in getting started with collecting bonsai.

I have this year a real over abundance of Golden Gate Ficus and I need to make more room in my green houses.

So my need to make this necessary room can be your opportunity to get one of these plants that have been trained already for nearly seven years.

Although it is too late now to get one for the Christmas season you can still get one for your self or a friend and enjoy it for years to come.

I have taken a picture here of what these plants look like but please remember that each plant is in a way almost like a person and they all have there own slight differences. They vary little from plant to plant and the plants will not be much at all different from the one you see here in this picture.

Your plant might be larger but never smaller and it could vary slightly in the trunk curve and be even more curved for added beauty. What may be different if anything at all might be the pot size and color as I have so many of these Ficus that I could not possibly take a picture of each one.

So you may see a blue pot in the picture but you may receive a plant that could very well be in a brown pot or a tan colored pot or green you get the idea. The picture here simply can not do justice to what these wonderful Ficus are really like and the beautiful looking markings in the trunks and the fantastic bright green of there leaves.

With your added attention and continued care these Ficus plants will grow on to be one of your favorite bonsai in time and surly they will command the attention of anyone who sees one of these plants in your collection.

If you are at all interested in getting one of these plants then contact me with your shipping details and I will ship one to you as fast as possible. Usually from the time I get the order and the plant gets into your hands takes about a week and a half total turn around time.

I only ship a couple of days during the week so as to avoid any time that the plants might get held over a weekend sitting in a UPS truck or warehouse in which case they might dry out and then it would not arrive to you in the best of health and so I always ship as fast as possible and most of the time by three day air select.

One of these Ficus can be shipped to you including shipping and handling for only $44.95 and believe me that's a real bargain as these Ficus are about 7 to 10 years old and even if I do toot my own horn I think that there just absolutely beautiful.

Your plant will be delivered to you packaged carefully to avoid any spilliage of the earth it is potted in and to you will also receive plant care instructions for your plant.

Thanks for taking a look and have a wonderful and healthy holiday and return as always in 2006 for more articles and bargains on my favorite of all plants the wonderful living bonsai.

Oh and PS: If you would like to really ensure that your plant gets delivered right into your hands at your door step then it is wise to require a signature other wise UPS will simply drop the package at your door and drive a way.

If this is not practical because you may be at work and not at home then simply ask your employer if you can have it delivered to you at your work place. This would also alleviate the need for your signature.

UPS now charges $2.00 more per package for required signatures. The package is automatically insured so no worry there.

Respectfully yours, Harold Yearout

Contact me at h.yearout@gmail.com with the subject line of purchase bonsai:

Creating your very own wild flower garden

Creating your very own wild flower garden

A wild-flower garden has a most attractive sound. One thinks of long tramps in the woods, collecting material, and then of the fun in fixing up a real for sure wild garden.

Many people say they have no luck at all with such a garden. It is not a question of luck, but a question of understanding, because wild flowers are like people and each has its very own personality.

Please be aware that what a plant has been accustomed to in nature it desires always. In fact, when removed from its own sort of living conditions, it most often sickens and dies.

That is enough to tell us that we should copy nature herself. Suppose you are hunting wild flowers. As you choose certain flowers from the woods, notice the soil they are in, the place, conditions, the surroundings, and the neighbors.

Suppose you find dog-tooth violets and wind-flowers growing close together. Then place them the same way in your own new garden. Suppose you find a certain violet enjoying an open situation; then it should always have the same conditions in its new garden. I hope you see the point, I’m trying to make here.

If you wish wild flowers to grow in a tame garden then make them feel at home. Cheat them into almost believing that they are still in their native haunts.

Wild flowers ought to be transplanted after blossoming time is over. Take a trowel and a basket into the woods with you. As you take up a few, a columbine, or a hepatica, be sure to take with the roots some of the plant's own soil, which must be packed about it when replanted.

The bed into which these plants are to go should be prepared carefully before you make your trip to collect. Surely you do not wish to bring those plants back to wait over a day or night before planting. They should go into there new quarters at once. The bed needs soil from the woods, deep and rich and full of leaf mold.

The under drainage system should be excellent. Then plants are not to go into water-logged ground. Some people think that all wood plants should have a soil saturated with water. But the woods themselves are not water-logged. It may be that you will need to dig your garden up very deeply and put some stone in the bottom.

Over this the top soil should go. And on top, where the top soil once was, put a new layer of the rich soil you brought from the woods.

Before planting water the soil well. Then as you make places for the plants put into each hole some of the soil which belongs to the plant which is to be put there.

I think it would be a rather nice plan to have a wild-flower garden giving a succession of bloom from early spring to late fall; so let us start off with March, the hepatica, spring beauty and saxifrage.

Next comes the month of April bearing in its arms the beautiful columbine, the tiny bluets and wild geranium.

For May there are the dog-tooth violet and the wood anemone, false Solomon's seal, Jack-in-the-pulpit, wake robin, bloodroot and violets.

June will give the bellflower, mullein, bee balm and foxglove. I would choose the gay butterfly weed for July. Let turtle head, aster, Joe Pye weed, and Queen Anne's lace make the rest of the season brilliant until frost.

Let us have a bit about the likes and dislikes of these plants. After you are once started you'll keep on adding to this wild-flower list.

There is no one who doesn't love the hepatica. Before the spring has really decided to come, this little flower pokes its head up and puts all else to shame. Tucked under a covering of dry leaves the blossoms wait for a ray of warm sunshine to bring them out.

These embryo flowers are further protected by a fuzzy covering. This reminds one of a similar protective covering which new fern leaves have. In the spring a hepatica plant wastes no time on getting a new suit of leaves. It makes its old ones do until the blossom has had its day.

You will find hepaticas growing in clusters, sort of family groups. They are likely to be found in rather open places in the woods. The soil is found to be rich and loose. So these should go only in partly shaded places and under good soil conditions. If planted with other woods specimens give them the benefit of a rather exposed position, that they may catch the early spring sunshine.

I should cover hepaticas over with a light litter of leaves in the fall. During the last days of February, unless the weather is extreme take this leaf covering away. You'll find the hepatica blossoms all ready to poke up their heads.

The spring beauty hardly allows the hepatica to get ahead of her. With a white flower which has dainty tracings of pink, a thin, wiry stem, and narrow, grass-like leaves, this spring flower cannot be mistaken. You will find spring beauties growing in great patches in rather open places. Plant a number of the roots and allow the sun good opportunity to get at them. For this plant loves the sun.

The other March flower mentioned is the saxifrage. This belongs in quite a different sort of environment. It is a plant which grows in dry and rocky places. Often one will find it in chinks of rock. There is an old tale to the effect that the saxifrage roots twine about rocks and work their way into them so that the rock itself splits.

Anyway, it is a rock garden plant. I have found it in dry, sandy places right on the borders of a big rock. It has white flower clusters borne on hairy stems.

The columbine is another plant that is quite likely to be found in rocky places. Standing below a ledge and looking up, one sees nestled here and there in rocky crevices one plant or more of columbine. The nodding red heads bob on wiry, slender stems. The roots do not strike deeply into the soil; in fact, often the soil hardly covers them.

Now, just because the columbine has little soil, it does not signify that it is indifferent to the soil conditions. For it always has lived, and always should live, under good drainage conditions. I wonder if it has struck you, how really hygienic plants are? Plenty of fresh air, proper drainage, and good food are fundamentals with plants.

It is evident from study of these plants how easy it is to find out what plants like. After studying their feelings, then do not make the mistake of huddling them all together under poor drainage conditions.

I always have a feeling of personal affection for the bluets. When they come I always feel that now things are beginning to settle down outdoors. They start with rich, lovely, little delicate blue blossoms. As June gets hotter and hotter their color fades a bit, until at times they look quite worn and white.

Some people call them Quaker ladies, others innocence. Under any name they are charming. They grow in colonies, sometimes in sunny fields, sometimes by the road-side. From this we learn that they are more particular about the open sunlight than about the soil.

If you desire a flower to pick and use for bouquets, then the wild geranium is not your flower. It droops very quickly after picking and almost immediately drops its petals. But the purplish flowers are showy, and the leaves, while rather coarse, are deeply cut. This latter effect gives certain boldness to the plant that is rather attractive.

The plant is found in rather moist, partly shaded portions of the woods. I like this plant in the garden. It adds good color and permanent color as long as blooming time lasts, since there is no object in picking it.

There are numbers and numbers of wild flowers I might have suggested. These I have mentioned were not given for the purpose of a flower guide, but with just one end in view your understanding of how to study soil conditions for the work of starting a wild-flower garden.

If you fear your results, then take but one or two flowers and study just what you selected then you can move on to others. Having mastered, or better, become acquainted with a few, add more another year to your garden. I think you will love your wild garden best of all before you are through with it. It is a real study, you will see once you try.

Thanks for reading.
By Harold Yearout

Creating a Raft Syle Bonsai

Nearly any species of tree could be used for a raft style bonsai but you’ll have more luck if you stick with material that is as pliable as possible.

Simply because you will need to bend and push things around quite a bit when you’re creating your raft style bonsai you'll be working with the tender limbs and trying to position them and move them where you want them as much as possible creating less work in the long run.

Some good sound choices for this style of bonsai would be yew, pine, or perhaps even Japanese maple or you might want to try an elm. There are others that would work and have worked but these would be my first choices and especially for the beginner creating this type of bonsai for the first time.

You will want to hunt for a tree that is fairly tall as this will afford you a fair amount of limbs to choose from and understand that you will only be using one side of your trees limbs for the raft so look for the side that has the most suitable limbs in your opinion as this side will be your raft.

Now we will want to trim the entire tree and then after words remove the limbs from the opposite side of which we chose to be our raft. Now lay the tree down on to a bed of soil in a fairly over sized planting box. Be sure to leave your tree still in its original pot and soil.

At this point it should resemble a row of trees pointing upwards from your remaining branches.

Now you will want to make cuts into the cambium layer of your tree trunk at about 1 inch intervals and then try to insert a small pebble to hold this area open a bit and also dress these scars with a rooting hormone powder. This is perhaps the hardest part of creating your raft planting.

Now your ready to remove the pot from the base of your tree and then tie in the roots of the tree to your planting box then cover up the trees branch as though it were the trunk for all of your trees because really it is.

However above the soil it really will resemble a group or row of trees at this point and this is the effect your trying to create.

Cover about two inches of soil over the trunk and then you can begin to wire the limbs if you want at this point and try to keep your biggest and most heavy looking limbs towards the front and the smaller limbs at the back this will add perspective to the entire planting.

Once you have this all accomplished and hopefully nothing has gone wrong and your tree is planted then all you need to do is sit back and wait for roots to form along the cuts that you made in the cambium. This could take a long time perhaps even a couple of years.

During this time take especially good care of this tree as you want to have success with your new raft planting. Keep it shaded in the hot days of summer and mist it regular and also feed as with any other bonsai.

It takes a long time to develop any good bonsai and especially one that is good looking and attractive. So just work with it and treat it like any other of your bonsai and you should have success.

In the mean time you can be thinking of how you want the whole raft to look after it is has grown for a season or so and is well established. Once it has its new root system developed then you could remove the old root and begin thinking of a pot that will work for your new loved bonsai.

Now of course pot selection is always a matter of preference and choices can be varied but you’ll at least want a pot that is large enough to give your bonsai room for expansion and yet not be out of proportion to the tree.

I like to choose either a nice large round shallow pot or one that is oval if possible or even better yet if you can afford it a nice slab type container would even be better.

Once I have selected a nice container then I will wait till the right time of year preferably spring and then I will replant my entire raft of trees in its new pot and then begin my real magic of creating it into the look of a landscape.

I will cut out some of the branches now to enhance a look of distance between trees and I will add moss where I can and then perhaps a small rock or two to add to the effect.

I will then train each individual limb as it were a completely separate bonsai tree and in time work at developing trunk and canopy accordingly for each tree in the raft.

As you work with your bonsai don’t be in hurry as it will most likely take you another couple of years to really begin to see the look of a small forest of trees but it will happen with time and your creative ability.

Thanks for reading.
By: Harold Yearout ©Copyright 2005 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved for more information feel free to contact me:

The Japanese Dwarf Garden Juniper

Better known in the bonsai world as Juniper Procumbens Nana


This lovely shrub is great for bonsai and especially for the beginner its low growing habit is great for creating a cascading bonsai and can be developed in a short time.

This material has been very miss used by many different sellers and other people displaying starter bonsai and even beyond in malls and other places where you might not normally expect to find bonsai for sale.

Good bonsai are normally sold by nurseries or people that specialize in this type of plant material and not in some mall out in the middle isle from a booth.

Don’t get me wrong sometimes you may find a really good buy in one of these types of places but most often I would be very careful.

Most of these sellers will simply slap one of these tiny starter plants into a pot and then call it bonsai. Buyers beware.

Such is not the case. It takes a few years to develop a nice bonsai and even with this material you’ll spend some time and have1 to do your homework if you really want to create a nice one.

This material however can make a wonderful bonsai and can be accomplished with very little efforts on the grower’s part if only you will follow a few simple guide lines.

Look for a plant in a nursery that is from five to seven years old and that has already been established and grown some nice branches for you to choose from and work on.

You can expect the price to be from around $9.95 when on sale to somewhere around $25.00 depending on the size of the plant and the amount of growth it has developed.

These plants can be found in nearly any fine garden establishment around the entire world.

If you want to work on your plant such as wiring or training of the branches this is best done in the fall when the plant goes dormant. If you do wire or train at other times of the year you will have to be very vigilante that you do not scar your bark and break the branches.

The branches will then have all winter to become accustomed to there new position. You will want to keep up with regular pinching of new growth of these plants during the growing season and please do pinch out the new growth and do not cut it out with scissors as this will turn your needles brown and make your plant look unsightly.

Pinching only encourages the plant to grow more vigorous and it will be come a lot more compact and not nearly as leggy looking on your branches.

All you need to do is grasp the new growth between your fore finger and your thumb and slightly twist and the new shoot will easily break away from the mother plant.

Eventually your aim is to try and create pods as I call them and let these cascades down for a very nice visual appearance. In other words a nice looking branched cascading arm with clusters of rounded or an elongated looking pods.

Fertilize your plant from early March till June and then stop feeding as you will not want to risk fertilizing this plant in the heat of summer as you may kill it.

The Juniper will tolerate full sun and can go a little on the dry side but as with all bonsai you will never want your plants to completely dry out; this simply is not good at all for any bonsai and most often will spell disaster.

The juniper likes to be sprayed or misted every day during the normal growing season from around June till September and in most areas it will begin to start its winter nap during the month of late October or even in to November.

You will need to repot your bonsai about every one to two years and at repotting time you will want to gradually remove about one third of the entire root growth but not at all once.

Do this over say two or three years and then once you have a nice established plant you’ll only need to transplant it about every five years or so.

Do not keep these plants indoors for long periods as they are indeed an outdoors bonsai. Others will try to convince you that it will simply grow just fine indoors. I’m here to tell you they are wrong.

Plants that are used to being out doors all the time simply will not do well indoors that’s just the way of it. By bringing those into your home you’re setting up a almost instant death for the plant.

These plants are simply used to being outside in the elements rain, wind, cold, and the like and once they acclimate to these types of conditions and then you try and change the conditions by bringing the plant in doors you will most often kill your plant.

This is not to say that you can’t bring your plants indoors for a short while to enjoy them because you can. But then you must return them to the garden or patio or where ever you’re growing them outside or expect disaster.

If you’re interested in trying your hand at one of these fairly simple to grow and tend bonsai then I would recommend that you get a nice starter from your local nursery during the growing season, or you may wish to get one from an auction if you do not want to wait. Or you can purchase a plant that is already growing and been pre trained to some extent.

Here is an auction link for you to take a look at if you want a plant you can hold over till spring and then begin work on, just click the link to take a look at this material. Simply click on the link below.

Click here to see the auction

If you want to perhaps purchase a plant that has already been established and some what pre trained then look at my link below. At my link you can take a look at a couple of plants that I have for you. Clik the link below to view the material.

http://www.bonsainmore.com


Thanks, for reading
By: Harold Yearout
©Copyright 2005 Harold Yearout All Rights Reserved For more information feel free to Contact Me:

Bald Cypress starter trees in a forest planting

Here are some bald cypress that I bought this last year close to the end of the season and it was simply to late to do much with them at that time other than put them into a pot and keep them until spring rolls around again.

I will begin to create a forest planting with these young starter tress this next spring and I will work them into a nice shallow pot at that time suitable for a penjing style type bonsai planting with some rock and other small materials.

I will at that time repost these same trees after I have transformed them into a nice forest type bonsai planting.

But at least you can get some what of an idea what you could do with these lovely trees by creating your own forest planting.

Please note that these pictures were taken while these trees still had there needles and they do not look like this at all now because they have lost all of there growth for the winter months.

But I wanted you to be able to see what these trees look like during the normal growing season and not in the winter months. They are now bald of there beautiful needles as there name implies bald cypress.

If you have any questions that you are unsure about of or would like my help with in any way with this type of project or any other that centers around bonsai feel free to ask me here or contact me.

You'll have to wait until spring to create one of these wonderful forest plantings but trust me you will have a fantastic looking starter bonsai if you do.

If you would like to try your hand at one of these beautiful type of plantings and create your very own great looking bonsai forest then check out a fantastic offer that I have found for you today go right now and chek it out. Simply click the link below.

Out Standing Bald Cypress Starter Offer



Thanks, Harold Yearout

The Bald Cypress bonsai

It has been touted that there are cypress that are eight hundred to one thousand years old. I can not attest to that simply because I have never seen one that old.

However there most likely are some that are that old. The bald cypress is called that because they will begin to shed there needles in the early fall and will remain that way until the next spring thus the tree looks bald.

In early March April or sometimes May the tree will begin to bud up again and get its needles back and will remain until the fall again.

These beautiful trees love to be wet and they are most often found in very swampy areas however they can also survive in soil that is not kept wet.

The cypress will do well as a bonsai if kept in a fairly deep pot and kept pretty much like a bog most of the time. If left to dry out then you would have a tough time to nurse your plant back.

Cypress growing in the wild have very large flared trunks at the base and if grown as a bonsai it will take many years to get a trunk of substantial size.

You could if you wanted to field grow your plant for a few years to obtain trunk girth and then work it down to be of a size suitable for bonsai. Perhaps the most significant stands of these trees are in the state of Illinois where there are some that indeed are spectacular.

The needles are very light green and will turn orange in the fall the cypress looks like it could fit into the family of conifers but it is deciduous.

If you want to have your best luck with this type of plant for a bonsai then I would highly recommend buying some small starts and then using them to create a forest scene as in the Chinese style of bonsai pronounced as punsai or penjing or a planting that looks like a landscape.

At the beginning your plants will be very slender and not require a deep pot and will have fairly small root systems and they would lend themselves to this type of planting very well.
Select a pot that is shallow in depth but rather long and half as wide and you’ll have a good pot for your trees then always stager your trees in this type of planting just as they would look in a forest never in a row either from left or right.

The cypress can stand full sun and if you want to start more then take cuttings or learn how to graft, or simply buy more starts. They could be grown from seed but this would take you several years.

Most people are way too impatient to wait for a tree to grow from seed.

Fertilize your cypress during the normal growing season from March to late September and then slack off when the tree begins to loose its needles indicating that it is going to sleep for the winter months.

Wiring can be preformed best just as the buds begin to emerge in the early spring and you should also transplant any trees that need bigger pots at this time too.

There are many types of cypress so do not get the bald cypress confused with other varieties. This variety is Taxodium distichum and is what you should be looking for if you want this material for bonsai or for your landscape.

You can see a couple here that I have worked on now for a number of years and they are now becoming very nice bonsai.

Thanks for reading:

By: Harold Yearout
©Copyright 2005 Harold Yearout All Rights ReservedFor more information feel free to Contact Me:

LANDSCAPE GARDENING

LANDSCAPE GARDENING.

Landscape gardening has often been likened to the painting of a picture. Your art-work teacher has most likely told you that a good picture should have a point of chief interest, and the rest of the points simply go to make more beautiful the central idea, or to form a fine setting for it. So in landscape gardening there must be in the gardener’s mind a picture of what he desires the whole to be when he completes his work.

From this study we shall be able to work out a little theory of landscape gardening.

Let us go to the lawn.

A good extent of open lawn space is always beautiful. It is restful. It adds a feeling of space to even small grounds. So we might generalize and say that it is well to keep open lawn spaces. If one covers his lawn space with many trees, with little flower beds here and there, the general effect is choppy and fussy. It is a bit like an over-dressed person. One’s grounds lose all individuality thus treated.

A single tree or a small group is not a bad arrangement on the lawn. Do not centre the tree or trees. Let them drop a bit into the background. Make a pleasing side feature of them. In choosing trees one must keep in mind a number of things. You should not choose an overpowering tree; the tree should be one of good shape, with something interesting about its bark, leaves, flowers or fruit. While the poplar is a rapid grower, it sheds its leaves early and so is left standing, bare and ugly, before the fall is old.

Mind you, there are places where a row or double row of Lombardy poplars is very effective. But I think you’ll agree with me that one lone poplar is not. The catalpa is quite lovely by itself. Its leaves are broad, its flowers attractive, the seed pods which cling to the tree until away into the winter, add a bit of picture squeness. The bright berries of the ash, the brilliant foliage of the sugar maple, the blossoms of the tulip tree, the bark of the white birch, and the leaves of the copper beech all these are beauty points to consider.

Place makes a difference in the selection of a tree. Suppose the lower portion of the grounds is a bit low and moist, then the spot is ideal for a willow. Don’t group trees together which look awkward. A long-looking poplar does not go with a nice rather rounded little tulip tree. A juniper, so neat and prim, would look silly beside a spreading chestnut. One must keep proportion and suitability in mind.

I’d never advise the planting of a group of evergreens close to a house, and in the front yard. The effect is very gloomy indeed. Houses thus surrounded are overcapped by such trees and are not only gloomy to live in, but truly unhealthful. The chief requisite inside a house is sunlight and plenty of it.

As trees are chosen because of certain good points, so shrubs should be. In a clump I should wish some which bloomed early, some which bloomed late, some for the beauty of their fall foliage, some for the colour of their bark and others for the fruit. Some spireas and the forsythia bloom early. The red bark of the dogwood makes a bit of colour all winter, and the red berries of the barberry cling to the shrub well into the winter.

Certain shrubs are good to use for hedge purposes. A hedge is rather prettier usually than a fence. The Californian privet is excellent for this purpose. Osage orange, Japan barberry, buckthorn, Japan quince, and Van Houtte’s spirea are other shrubs which make good hedges.

I forgot to say that in tree and shrub selection it is usually better to choose those of the locality one lives in. Unusual and foreign plants do less well, and often harmonize but poorly with their new setting.

Landscape gardening may follow along very formal lines or along informal lines. The first would have straight paths, straight rows in stiff beds, everything, as the name tells, perfectly formal. The other method is, of course, the exact opposite. There are danger points in each.

The formal arrangement is likely to look too stiff; the informal, too fussy, too wiggly. As far as paths go, keep this in mind, that a path should always lead somewhere. That is its business to direct one to a definite place. Now, straight, even paths are not unpleasing if the effect is to be that of a formal garden. The danger in the curved path is an abrupt curve, a whirligig effect. It is far better for you to stick to straight paths unless you can make a really beautiful curve. No one can tell you how to do this.

Garden paths may be of gravel, of dirt, or of grass. One sees grass paths in some very lovely gardens. I doubt, however, if they would serve as well in your small gardens. Your garden areas are so limited that they should be re-spaded each season, and the grass paths are a great bother in this work. Of course, a gravel path makes a fine appearance, but again you may not have gravel at your command.

It is possible for any of you to dig out the path for two feet. Then put in six inches of stone or clinker. Over this, pack in the dirt, rounding it slightly toward the centre of the path. There should never be depressions through the central part of paths, since these form convenient places for water to stand. The under layer of stone makes a natural drainage system.

A building often needs the help of vines or flowers or both to tie it to the grounds in such a way as to form a harmonious whole. Vines lend themselves well to this work. It is better to plant a perennial vine, and so let it form a permanent part of your landscape scheme. The Virginia creeper, wistaria, honeysuckle, a climbing rose, the clematis and trumpet vine are all most satisfactory.

Close your eyes and picture a house of natural colour, that mellow gray of the weathered shingles. Now add to this old house a purple wistaria. Can you see the beauty of it? I shall not forget soon a rather ugly corner of my childhood home, where the dining room and kitchen met. Just there climbing over, and falling over a trellis was a trumpet vine. It made beautiful an awkward angle, an ugly bit of carpenter work.

Of course, the morning-glory is an annual vine, as is the moon-vine and wild cucumber. Now, these have their special function. For often, it is necessary to cover an ugly thing for just a time, until the better things and better times come. The annual is ‘the chap’ for this work.

Along an old fence a hop vine is a thing of beauty. One might try to rival the woods’ landscape work. For often one sees festooned from one rotted tree to another the ampelopsis vine.

Flowers may well go along the side of the building, or bordering a walk. In general, though, keep the front lawn space open and unbroken by beds. What lovelier in early spring than a bed of daffodils close to the house? Hyacinths and tulips, too, form a blaze of glory. These are little or no bother, and start the spring aright. One may make of some bulbs an exception to the rule of unbroken front lawn.

Snowdrops and crocuses planted through the lawn are beautiful. They do not disturb the general effect, but just blend with the whole. One expert bulb gardener says to take a basketful of bulbs in the fall, walk about your grounds, and just drop bulbs out here and there. Wherever the bulbs drop, plant them. Such small bulbs as those we plant in lawns should be in groups of four to six. Daffodils may be thus planted, too.

The place for a flower garden is generally at the side or rear of the house. The backyard garden is a lovely idea, is it not? Who wishes to leave a beautiful looking front yard, turn the corner of a house, and find a dump heap? Not I. The flower garden may be laid out formally in neat little beds, or it may be more of a careless, hit-or-miss sort. Both have their good points. Great masses of bloom are attractive.

You should have in mind some notion of the blending of colour. Nature appears not to consider this at all, and still gets wondrous effects. This is because of the tremendous amount of her perfect background of green, and the limitlessness of her space, while we are confined at the best to relatively small areas. So we should endeavour not to blind people’s eyes with clashes of colours which do not at close range blend well. In order to break up extremes of colours you can always use masses of white flowers, or something like mignonette, which is in effect green.

Finally, let us sum up our landscape lesson. The grounds are a setting for the house or buildings. Open, free lawn spaces, a tree or a proper group well placed, flowers which do not clutter up the front yard, groups of shrubbery these are points to be remembered. The paths should lead somewhere, and be either straight or well curved. If one starts with a formal garden, one should not mix the informal with it before the work is done.

If you would like a little help with the whole process then there are a couple of fine books that I highly recommend that you read and study. Now you will not be able to carry these books very easy to the garden but they are both very good and especially the one about garden plants from A to Z.







So check these out today and if you want or need more then there are others that I can recommend.

Thanks for reading: BY Harold Yearout

Shohin Bonsai

shohin
Originally uploaded by silverone55.

This is a tiny Shohin Bonsai. In Japan the word Shohin means tiny thing.

This is indeed a tiny bonsai the entire tree is less than seven inches from the bottom of the pot to the top of the tree.

Planted in a pot that is less than one inch around and about one and a half inches deep.

The material is Chinese Sweet Plum.

These tiny plants require that the owner pay very close attention to the watering needs of his or her plants as these small plants will dry out very fast.

Please read the entire article below to learn more about Shohin bonsai.

The creation of small shohin bonsai

I have been creating and enjoying bonsai for many years now but I have always hated the word miniature when referring to bonsai. Bonsai in my opinion are not miniatures.

There is one type of bonsai however that is very small and that is the shohin and in Japan the word shohin means tiny thing.

When someone looks at a regular bonsai planted in a pot and thinks that it is miniature or small or dwarfed then they may be right to a degree. However the art and idea of bonsai has been based upon a sound principal of horticulture and creative art for hundreds of years.

And although the viewer sees the bonsai as miniature or dwarfed the plants are really only creations that have been styled and trained by there owners to resemble the same exact type of tree that you might see in any forest any where around the world.

The one real difference is that the bonsai has been trained to live in the smaller confines of a pot or tray by the way the owner has clipped, trimmed, wired and trained not only the trunk and branches but also the entire root system of his or her tree.

Now let’s take into account the shohin bonsai and its size. If you thought that a regular bonsai was small or miniaturized then you would really be shocked if you were to see a shohin bonsai.

Because the art of shohin is that of creating a bonsai that is no more than ten inches tall over all from the base of the pot to the top of the tree.

Not only that but the entire tree and pot should easily fit into the palm of the hand and that my friend is small. And believe it or not I have seen bonsai that were so small that they could fit into a sewing thimble.

Some of the main differences between the shohin and regular bonsai are of course the size and shohin are very small in compression but just as fun to create and as nice and lovely to look at.

If you want to create and grow a shohin you will need to take its size into account in many ways. Most noticeably would be watering, feeding, location, temperature, pot size and of course the material and plant size you want to work into a shohin.

Watering is always the most critical because the plant is in a much smaller pot and has les dirt to support the root system and therefore will dry out much faster. And it should be rather obvious that you would feed this size plant less than a larger plant.



If you plan to place your finished shohin in your garden then you would certainly want to protect it from the direct sun and also keep it where it will not be blown over or off of a display bench from high winds.

The selection of material for a shohin bonsai can be nearly any woody material just like its big brothers and you could simply start looking for a nice plant in a nursery or collect one from the wild or of course grow one from seed.

The later of course taking you many years to develop the size of trunk that you would want for a nice visual affect when viewing your shohin. I would much rather start out with a plant that all ready has some girth to the trunk and simply work it down in size to fit into a tiny pot.

You can always add some moss or other material to the top of your pot to help not only create more humidity for your tiny plant but also create a more pleasant planting to view.

You can still follow the regular rules of bonsai for your shohin and by that I mean the styles need not be different nor do the pots or the soil and you will still trim, clip, cut, wire, and do all same things to these little plants as you do with your larger ones.

It would take much more room and a lot more extensive study about the art of shohin than I have room here to tell you about. So if your at all interested in this bonsai art form then you will need to look for more material here on the World Wide Web.

Simply do a search for shohin bonsai and you will find many sites, articles and books that will explain in depth what you will want to learn about this type of bonsai planting.

If your at all interested in creating some bonsai of your very own but are a little confused about how and where to start then I recommend reading and studying first that way you will have a better understanding of the whole process when you do decide to begin.

Here is a great book that I highly recommend when starting out in the wonderful hobby of bonsai. Once you have read this book there are others that I can recommend as well that will teach you even more about this most rewarding of all horticulture art forms.



By: Harold Yearout
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Thanks for reading my articles.